s to themselves. The Arabs occupy the plains and are nomadic;
the Moors possess the wealth of the land and control most branches of
trade, making their homes in the cities, and are the direct descendants
of the Moors of Spain. Strange there should be such a spirit of
detestation existing towards every idea associated with civilized and
Christian life, but so it is at Tangier.
From Gibraltar to Malaga by sea is less than a hundred miles eastward
along the coast. We embarked on board the English steamer Cadiz.
Fortunately the trip is a short one, for the boat was filthy, and had
just been transporting cattle from England to the Rock. The water was
rough enough to make the few passengers, except ourselves, quite
seasick; which, in the contracted accommodations of the Cadiz, made
matters far from agreeable. To add to the discomfort there was a steady
downpour of rain during the trip; but we were no strangers to such
contingencies, and made the best of it. The irregular Spanish coast was
in sight through a veil of mist nearly all the way until we landed,
after a slight skirmish with the custom-house officers, at Malaga, March
15th. It is commercially one of the most important cities of Spain, and
was once the capital of an independent state, with plenty of ancient
lore hanging about it, as it was a large and prosperous Phoenician
capital centuries before Christ. The older portions of the city have all
the Moorish peculiarities of construction,--narrow streets, narrow
passages, small barred windows, and heavy doors; but the more modern
part of Malaga is characterized by broad, straight thoroughfares, and
elegantly built houses. This is especially the case with the Alameda,
which has a central walk lined on either side with handsome
almond-trees, edged by plats of flowers, and green shrubs intermingled,
besides which there are statues and a fountain of an elaborate character
at the end of the walk. On either side of this promenade is a good
roadway, flanked with houses of pleasing architectural effect, lofty and
well relieved.
There are several fine open squares in Malaga, some of which contain
statues and ornamental trees and flowers. The discovery, not long since,
of Roman antiquities in the environs has created a warm interest among
archaeologists. The trade of the city in wine, dried and green fruit, is
large; and we were told that nearly nine tenths of the forty thousand
butts of sweet wine, sold here for foreign use a
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