tagger a brewer's horse. Women who rode their ponies and donkeys
astride, man-fashion, were yet very careful to cover their faces from
view, their eyes gleaming out of peep-holes like those of a cat in the
dark. Others, again, jostled you in the street with little naked
children straddling one shoulder, and holding on by both hands to the
mother's head. People riding upon donkeys--used in place of cabs
here--require a boy to follow behind them with a stick to belabor the
poor creatures; otherwise, being so trained, they will not move a step
forward. Those who drive through the streets in carriages have a runner
to precede them, gorgeously dressed, and carrying a long white wand in
his hand, who is constantly crying to clear the way. These runners go as
fast as a horse ordinarily trots, and seem never to tire. The common
people lie down on the sidewalk, beside the road, in nooks and corners,
anywhere in the open air, to sleep off their fatigue like a dog.
Speaking of dogs: here, as in Constantinople, their name is legion, and
they appear to have no special masters, shrinking away into holes or
behind bales of goods during the day, and coming forth by night to seek
for food from the debris of the streets, like jackals in India or crows
in Ceylon. Every public square has its fountain, and there are two
hundred in Cairo, where the domestic portion of the households come to
obtain water. The young girls carry water gracefully poised in jars upon
their heads, displaying forms and gait of faultless beauty. Some of
these girls scrupulously screen their faces from the public eye; others
roguishly remove the yasmak when a European smiles at them, and tinkle
their silver bracelets as full of roguery as a Viennese.

What a motley aspect these Cairo bazars present! This old Turk, with
flowing caftan and white turban, from his dingy quarters dispenses
delicious odors, curious pastes and essences, with kohl for the eyes and
henna for the fingers. Another has piles of sandal-wood fans, beads, and
cheap jewelry of silver and gilt; now we come upon a low platform spread
with Syrian crapes of all colors, hues, and patterns, to satisfy the
gaudy taste of the slaves of the harem and the negresses of the Soudan;
here are sweetmeats, dates stuffed with almonds and honey and sugar,
combined in a tempting mixture, with added coloring matter; again we
have pipes of all shapes and sizes, with delicate stems of nicely
wrought amber, and stores of t