s; indeed, we have never seen written Maltese, which, as
spoken by the populace, is a mixture of Arabic and Eastern dialects.
Italian, French, and English are equally in use, but the latter, being
now the official tongue, takes precedence among the educated classes.

The garrison is formed of some three or four thousand British troops.
Many of the streets run up the steep hill-side on which the town stands,
and are flanked by broad stone steps for foot passengers, the roadway
being quite inaccessible for vehicles. The principal thoroughfare is the
Strada Reale, nearly a mile long, flanked by fine and attractive stores,
shops displaying choice fancy goods, jewelry, silks, and laces; also by
dwelling-houses and hotels; in short, forming a busy and handsome
boulevard. All the dwelling-houses over the stores are ornamented by
pleasant iron balconies, where the residents can sit and enjoy the cool
evening breezes after the hot days that linger about Malta nearly all
the year round. It was observed that the town was lighted by a complete
gas system. There is a large and imposing stone opera house, of fine
architectural aspect, ornamented with Corinthian columns, a wide
portico, and broad steps leading up to the same. A visit to the Church
of St. John was very interesting. It was built a little over three
hundred years since by the Knights, who lavished large sums of money
upon its erection and elaborate ornamentation. Statuary and paintings of
rare merit abound within its walls, and gold and silver ornaments render
the altar a work of great aggregate value. The entire roof of the
church, which is divided into zones, is admirably painted by figures of
such proportions as to look of life size from the floor, representing
prominent Scriptural scenes. The excellence, finish, and naturalness of
the figures challenged special attention; it was difficult not to
believe them to be in bas-relief. On inquiring as to their authorship,
we were told that they were the work of Mattia Preli, an enthusiastic
artist, who spent his life in this adornment, refusing all remuneration
for his labor, content to live frugally that he might thus exemplify his
art and his devotion. He certainly excelled any artist with whom we are
acquainted in causing figures painted on a flat surface to appear to the
spectator far below them to stand out with statuesque effect. In this
Church of St. John, the Knights seemed to have vied with each other in
adding to i