Vranjina. The
view from the chapel, as we afterwards found, was superb. The whole
lake spreads out in its vast expanse. Scutari, or rather the hill
behind which it lies, can be seen dimly in the distance. To the right,
the Lovcen and the Rumija rear their lofty heads, and divide the lake
from the Adria beyond. Away to the left the rugged snow-clad Albanian
Alps stretch as far as the eye can see, piling themselves up in a wild
and grand confusion. Several green submerged willow islands lay at our
feet, round which crowds of snow-white cranes were circling. Such was
our view as we reached the plateau in front of the chapel that
evening, tired, hungry, and irritated, but still appreciative.

The priest, or "pop," clad in the national costume, as indeed are all
the country clergy, and only distinguishable from his wild-looking
parishioners by his uncut hair and beard (the Greek Church do not
allow their ministers to cut their hair or beards), met us in a
friendly manner, but absolutely refused to take us in at first. He
said he had absolutely nothing in the house but a little goat's
cheese, and no beds. However, we were desperate; to go to the village
meant another hour's cramp in the canoe, and perhaps no better
accommodation than here. Here we would stay, and starve.

By dint of much persuasion, the priest produced a mattress, and a man
was sent down to the village to procure anything that he could find,
and so we stayed in the monastery a week, and really enjoyed
ourselves. We used to go out shooting at daybreak in canoes with two
paddles apiece, and again in the evening, for the heat was
overpowering about midday.

[Illustration: THE POP OF VRANJINA]

[Illustration: AN ALBANIAN GIRL]

The method of fishing here is distinctly interesting. A large number
are required to work the net, but they make enormous hauls. The
procedure is as follows: One large boat is anchored near the shore and
made fast to trees, and a huge net is taken out and spread in a
circle, the ends being kept in the stationary boat. Two men, naked,
stand a few feet from the boat in the water, keeping the sides of the
net down and preventing the escape of fish as the circle is gradually
narrowed by the men in the boat slowly pulling it in. The last bit
requires their united efforts, for it is full of fish, some of
considerable size. At the conclusion of the "haul" one of the men
chose two of the largest fish and threw them into my canoe as a
prese