ternal help the Prince has
carried through his reforms, and, like David in his final exhortation
to Solomon, leaves the way ready for still greater progress to be made
in the future. And the comparison holds good in more respects than
one.

We drank our last little cup of coffee, oddly enough, in the
historical monastery of Ivan Beg in the company of the Vladika, to
whom we were paying our farewell respects, and half an hour later were
whirling down to Bajice under the shadow of the mighty Lovcen.

As the grand Bocche di Cattaro again burst on our view and the first
black and yellow sign-post of Austria was passed, we turned again for
a last look at those seemingly forbidding and inhospitable mountains;
but only forbidding and inhospitable to the enemy of the brave little
race beyond. To the stranger, fresh from the comforts and improvements
of civilisation, it is a revelation of how men live, knowing nothing
of the luxuries of the outer world, and keep themselves untarnished in
honour; honest and God-fearing where a man is judged by his deeds and
not by his words. Where men do not steal or lie, and where the humble
peasant looks his Prince in the face and says--

"Lord, I am a man like thyself."

They have their faults and failings, many of their customs seem
barbaric to our eyes: but may they long be preserved from the evils of
civilisation!

Later, as the ship ploughed her way through the waves, and the
mountains of Crnagora became ever more and more faint and indistinct,
we thought of Tennyson's words:--

"They rose to where their sov'ran eagle sails,
They kept their faith, their freedom, on the height,
Chaste, frugal, savage, armed by day and night
Against the Turk; whose inroad nowhere scales
Their headlong passes, but his footstep fails,
And red with blood the Crescent reels from fight
Before their dauntless hundreds in prone flight
By thousands down the crags and through the vales.

* * * * *

O smallest among peoples! rough rock-throne
Of Freedom! warriors beating back the swarm
Of Turkish Islam for five hundred years,
Great Crnagora! never since thine own
Black ridges drew the cloud and broke the storm
Has breathed a race of mightier mountaineers."

THE END

INDEX

Alarm, 87, 187
Albanian costume, 139
" custom house, 133
" mass, 231
Andrijevica, 65, 183
Antivari,