ined leave, for we were presented to Gregory XVI. by the President
of the Scotch Catholic College. The Pope received me with marked
distinction; notwithstanding I was disgusted to see the President
prostrate on the floor, kissing the Pope's foot as if he had been
divine. I think it was about this time that I was elected an honorary
associate of the Accademia Tiberiana.

I had very great delight in the Campagna of Rome; the fine range of
Apennines bounding the plain, over which the fleeting shadows of the
passing clouds fell, ever changing and always beautiful, whether viewed
in the early morning, or in the glory of the setting sun, I was never
tired of admiring; and whenever I drove out, preferred a country drive
to the more fashionable Villa Borghese. One day Somerville and I and our
daughters went to drive towards the Tavolata, on the road to Albano. We
got out of the carriage, and went into a field, tempted by the wild
flowers. On one side of this field ran the aqueduct, on the other a deep
and wide ditch full of water. I had gone towards the aqueduct, leaving
the others in the field. All at once we heard a loud shouting, when an
enormous drove of the beautiful Campagna grey cattle with their
wide-spreading horns came rushing wildly between us with their heads
down and their tails erect, driven by men with long spears mounted on
little spirited horses at full gallop. It was so sudden and so rapid,
that only after it was over did we perceive the danger we had run. As
there was no possible escape, there was nothing for it but standing
still, which Somerville and my girls had presence of mind to do, and the
drove dividing, rushed like a whirlwind to the right and left of them.
The danger was not so much of being gored as of being run over by the
excited and terrified animals, and round the walls of Rome places of
refuge are provided for those who may be passing when the cattle are
driven. Near where this occurred there is a house with the inscription
"_Casa Dei Spiriti_"; but I do not think the Italians believe in either
ghosts or witches; their chief superstition seems to be the
"_Jettatura_" or evil eye, which they have inherited from the early
Romans, and, I believe, Etruscans. They consider it a bad omen to meet a
monk or priest on first going out in the morning. My daughters were
engaged to ride with a large party, and the meet was at our house. A
Roman, who happened to go out first, saw a friar, and rushed in again