lested us. We owe much of our comfort to the
house we are in, for there are scarcely any furnished lodgings, and
the hotels are bad and dear, besides situation is everything at this
season, when the smaller canals become offensive at low water, for,
though there is little tide in the Mediterranean, there are four
feet at new and full moon here, which is a great blessing. We have
now seen everything, and have become acquainted with everybody, and
met with kindness and attention beyond all description. Many of the
great ducal families still exist, and live handsomely in their
splendid palaces; indeed, the decay of Venice, so much talked of, is
quite a mistake; certainly it is very different from what it was in
its palmy days, but there is a good deal of activity and trade. The
abolition of the law of primogeniture has injured the noble
families more than anything else. We rise early, and are busy
indoors all morning, except the girls, who go to the Academy of the
_Belle Arti_, and paint from ten till three. We dine at four, and
embark in our gondola at six or seven, and row about on the glassy
sea till nine, when we go to the Piazza of San Marco, listen to a
very fine military band, and sit gossiping till eleven or twelve,
and then row home by the Grand Canal, or make a visit in one of the
various houses that are open to us. One of the most remarkable of
these is that of the Countess Mocenigo's, who has in one of her
drawing-rooms the portraits of six doges of the Mocenigo name. I was
presented by her to the Duc de Bordeaux, the other evening, a fat
good-natured looking person. I was presented also to the Archduke--I
forget what--son of the Archduke Charles, and admiral of the fleet
here; a nice youth, but not clever. We meet him everywhere, and
Somerville dined with him a few days ago. The only strangers of note
are the Prince of Tour and Taxis, and Marshal Marmont. The Venetian
ladies are very ladylike and agreeable, and speak beautifully. We
have received uncommon kindness from Mr. Rawdon Brown; he has made
us acquainted with everybody, as he is quite at home here, having
been settled in Venice for several years, and has got a most
beautiful house fitted up, in _rococo_ style, with great taste; he
is an adept at Venetian history. He supplies us with books, which
are a great comfort..