ri-Nini, the celebrated
opera-singer, who had retired from the stage, and lived with her
husband, a Sienese gentleman, in a villa not far from Villa Normanby.
She gave a musical party, to which she invited us. The music, which was
entirely artistic, was excellent, the entertainment very handsome, and
it was altogether very enjoyable. As we were driving home afterwards,
late at night, going down the hill, our carriage ran against one of the
dead carts which was carrying those who had died that day to the
burying-ground at Trespiano. It was horribly ghastly--one could
distinguish the forms of the limbs under the canvas thrown over the heap
of dead. The burial of the poor and rich in Italy is in singular
contrast; the poor are thrown into the grave without a coffin, the rich
are placed in coffins, and in full dress, which, especially in the case
of youth and infancy, leaves a pleasant impression. An intimate friend
of ours lost an infant, and asked me to go and see it laid out. The
coffin, lined with white silk, was on a table, covered with a white
cloth, strewed with flowers, and with a row of wax lights on either
side. The baby was clothed in a white satin frock, leaving the neck and
arms bare; a rose-bud was in each hand, and a wreath of rose-buds
surrounded the head, which rested on a pillow. Nothing could be
prettier; it was like a sleeping angel.

* * * * *

Pio Nono had lost his popularity before he came to visit the Grand Duke
of Tuscany. The people received him respectfully, but without
enthusiasm; nevertheless, Florence was illuminated in his honour. The
Duomo, Campanile, and the old tower in the Piazza dei Signori were very
fine, but the Lung' Arno was beautiful beyond description; the river was
full, and reflected the whole with dazzling splendour.

I made the acquaintance of Signore Donati, afterwards celebrated for the
discovery of one of the most brilliant comets of this century, whose
course and changes I watched with the greatest interest. On one occasion
I was accompanied by my valued friend Sir Henry Holland, who had come to
Florence during one of his annual journeys. I had much pleasure in
seeing him again.

Political parties ran very high in Florence; we sympathised with the
Liberals, living on intimate terms with the chief of them. As soon as
the probability of war between Piedmont and Austria became known, many
young men of every rank, some even of the highest families, has