r saw people who enjoyed life more, and they have much the
advantage of us in their delicious climate and aquatic amusements,
so much more picturesque than what can be done on land. However, we
have had no less than three dances lately. The Grand Duke of Modena,
with his son and daughter-in-law, were here, and to them a _fete_
was given by the Countess de Thurn. The palace was brilliant with
lights; it is on the grand canal, and immediately under the balcony
was a boat from which fireworks were let off, and then a couple of
boats succeeded them, in which choruses were sung. The view from the
balcony is one of the finest in Venice, and the night was charming,
and there I was while the dancing went on.... I never saw Somerville
so well; this place suits us to the life, constant air and no
fatigue; I never once have had a headache.... Now, my dear W., tell
me your tale; my tale is done.

Yours affectionately,
MARY SOMERVILLE.

* * * * *

FROM MRS. SOMERVILLE TO WORONZOW GREIG, ESQ.

ROME, PALAZZO LEPRI, VIA DEI CONDOTTI, _27th October, 1848_.

MY DEAREST WORONZOW,

... We had a beautiful journey to Rome, with fine weather and no
annoyance, notwithstanding the disturbed state of the country. At
Padua we only remained long enough to see the churches, and it was
impossible to pass within a few miles of Arqua without paying a
visit to the house of Petrarch. At Ferrara we had a letter to the
Cardinal Legate, who was very civil. His palace is the ancient abode
of the house of Este.... We had a long visit from him in the
evening, and found him most agreeable; he regretted that there was
no opera, as he would have been happy to offer us his box. Fourteen
of those unfortunate men who have been making an attempt to raise an
insurrection were arrested the day before; and the night before we
slept at Lugo, the Carabineers had searched the inn during the
night, entering the rooms where the people were sleeping. We should
have been more than surprised to have been wakened by armed men at
midnight. In travelling through Italy the _reliques_ and history of
the early Christians and of the Middle Ages have a greater
attraction for me than those of either the Romans or Etruscans,
interesting