the Cancelleria, at Rome.]

CHAPTER XIV.

ROME, NAPLES, AND COMO--BADEN--WINTER AT FLORENCE--SIENA--LETTER FROM
LORD BROUGHAM--MR. MOUNTSTUART ELPHINSTONE--LIFE AT ROME--CAMPAGNA
CATTLE.

[My mother was already meditating writing a book upon Physical
Geography, and had begun to collect materials for it, when my
father's long and dangerous illness obliged her to lay it aside for
a time. My father was ordered to a warmer climate for the winter,
and as soon as he was able to travel we proceeded to Rome. We were
hardly settled when my mother, with her usual energy, set to work
diligently, and began this book, which was not published for some
time later, as it required much thought and research. She never
allowed anything to interfere with her morning's work; after that
was over she was delighted to join in any plan which had been formed
for the afternoon's amusement, and enjoyed herself thoroughly,
whether in visiting antiquities and galleries, excursions in the
neighbourhood, or else going with a friend to paint on the Campagna.
My mother was extremely fond of Rome, and often said no place had
ever suited her so well. Independently of the picturesque beauty of
the place, which, to such a lover of nature, was sufficient in
itself, there was a very pleasant society during many seasons we
spent there. The visitors were far less numerous than they are now,
but on that very account there was more sociability and intimacy,
and scarcely an evening passed without our meeting. The artists
residing at Rome, too, were a most delightful addition to society.
Some of them became our very dear friends. My mother remarks:--]

* * * * *

We took lodgings at Rome, and as soon as we were settled I resumed my
work and wrote every morning till two o'clock, then went to some
gallery, walked on the Pincio, dined at six, and in the evening either
went out or received visits at home--the pleasantest way of seeing
friends, as it does not interfere with one's occupations.

We once joined a party that was arranged to see the statues in the
Vatican by torchlight, at which Lord Macaulay astonished us by his
correct knowledge and learning as we passed through the gallery of
inscriptions. To me this evening was memorable; on this occasion I first
met with John Gibson, the sculptor, who afterwards became a dear and
valued friend. H