y different. The _quichiquemils_ of the Otomis are smaller
and completely covered with red and black embroidery; those of the
Totonacs are much larger, and portions of the white foundations
may still be seen, notwithstanding the heavy patterns in brilliant
colors--red, green, yellow and blue. Mothers put babies onto one side,
with their little legs astride a hip, and then tie them firmly in place
with an _ayate_, or carry-cloth, of cotton, thus leaving their hands
free for work or other burdens. If we had difficulty measuring the
Totonac women, we had still greater difficulty in photographing
satisfactory groups of them. Neither pleadings nor bribes on our part,
orders nor threats on the part of the officials, had much influence.

Pantepec is a large town, situated near the edge of the great mountain
mass, and looking across a valley, which is backed by what appears to be
a flat-topped, straight-edged, table mountain. The houses of the town
are scattered over a considerable area upon the slope. The walls are of
poles, heavily daubed with mud which is neatly and smoothly laid on. The
corners of this mud covering are rounded, instead of angular, as usual
elsewhere. The thatch is heavy and firm, and squarely cut along its
lower edge, where it projects far beyond the walls. The _plaza_ is above
the town-house, and is extremely ugly; a kiosk, which certainly can
lay no claim to beauty, stands in the centre; ugly shacks, used as
_tiendas_, border a part of it along the main road. Striking, at this
time, in the village were the _colorin_ trees, some of which occurred
in almost every enclosure; they were in bloom, and had long, slender,
flaming-red, cigarette-shaped flowers, which appeared before the leaves,
from trunks that were gnarled and brown and almost branchless. Many
popular _danzas_ are celebrated here, but none was taking place during
our stay. San Gregorio, the town of paper-making, is not far from
Pantepec, and large quantities of the bark paper are beaten in the
little village of Ixcoyotla, which belongs to this _municipio_. Asking
an old Otomi whether he knew about this paper, he answered us, with
great cunning, that we probably knew as much of it as he did. He finally
condescended to state that the _munecos_ of it were used in curing
disease; that anyone who has a disease secures one of these _munecos_
and applies it to the diseased part. The _presidente_ insisted that this
paper was not made from _jonote_, but fr