in its exceptional features that Valencia
shines, and gradually steals into your affections. Not, however, as
Tarragona the favoured. The pure air, stately repose and dignified charm
of that Dream of the Past is very opposed to the noisy unrest and
crowded thoroughfares, constant going to and fro, and confined
atmosphere of this ancient city of the Cid.

Nevertheless it has its ecclesiastical attractions in the way of
churches: some with interesting towers, though few with fine interiors.
It is an archbishopric, therefore has a cathedral. It possesses a
university, and most of the crowd we saw evidently thought that the bow
cannot always be strung and Homer must sometimes nod. They fill the
cafes and theatres, go mad with excitement in the bull-ring when the
Sunday performance is given, and occasionally have a free fight amongst
themselves; when some of them get locked up by way of warning to the
many rather than as a punishment to the few. After such an outbreak,
never very desperate, peace reigns for a time: peace that is never
seriously broken.

[Illustration: A STREET IN VALENCIA.]

It was a relief that first evening to return to the comparative repose
of the hotel. When the hour for dinner had struck, de Nevada in clerical
garments came to our rooms and carried us off to his own sitting-room
where dinner was served. We seemed fated to fall in with the clerical
element in Spain, and as yet had certainly not regretted it. De Nevada
was evidently well known and highly considered by the hotel people,
who exerted their best efforts in his favour, which also fell to our
portion. His conversation was a mixture of grave and gay, with much wit
and humour. He had outlived his sorrows, it may be, yet their influence
remained. Every now and then a chance word or allusion seemed to vibrate
some long-silent chord in heart or memory. A momentary shadow would pass
over his face as a small cloud passing over the sun for an instant
overshadows the earth. It was over in a flash, and he would at once be
his genial, jovial self, full of strong spirits toned down by excellent
breeding and the thought of what was due to his cloth. Probably we saw
more of his inner character than if we had dined with the de la Torres.
We had him to ourselves, his undivided attention, and amongst various
topics he gave us a great insight into many of the by-ways of the
Spanish Church. "It is a subject in which I am deeply interested," he
said. "I am wri