re!"--Earthly
paradise--Land of consolation--System of irrigation--Famous
council--Poetical Granada--No appeal--Apostles' Gateway--Earth's
fascinations--Picturesque peasants--Pretty women--Countess Pedro
shakes her head--Leave-taking--Next morning--Quiet activity--Market
day--Splendours of flower-market--Lonja de Seda--Vanishing
dream--Audiencia--San Salvador--Antiquity yields to
comfort--Convent of San Domingo--Miserere--Impressive
ceremony--City of Flowers--Without the walls--Famous river--Change
of scene.

Valencia proved more modern and bustling than we had imagined. After the
quiet streets of Tarragona it appeared to us the most crowded place we
had ever been in; tramcars ran to and fro; there was much noise and
excitement. Half the crowd was composed of the student class. All seemed
in an uproar, but it was only their natural tone and manner. The
Valencians, especially the lower classes, are devoted to pleasure; the
work of the day over, they live for enjoyment.

[Illustration: ANCIENT GATEWAY: VALENCIA.]

Involuntarily we were reminded of our old days in the Quartier Latin;
but there, excitement often meant revolutionary mischief. The Valencians
are peace-loving, and their climate forces them to be gay and lively.
Though passionate and hasty, like a violent tornado the rage soon
passes. This evening, in spite of much movement, a constant buzzing of
voices, an excitement that filled the air, everything was in order.
Laughter and chatter abounded, far more so than we had found in most
Spanish towns. Until now the character of the Spaniard on ordinary
occasions had seemed rather given to silence: in Valencia we came upon a
new element, approaching the French or Italian.

The city has lost much of its ancient interest. As late as 1871, the
wonderful old walls, massive and battlemented, were pulled down to find
work for the poor. Twelve gates admitted to the interior: and what the
walls were may be judged by the few gates that remain.

Within the city the air is close and relaxing, the skies are brilliant,
the sun intensely hot, the streets narrow and densely packed with
houses. This was designed to keep out the heat, but also keeps out air
and light. The houses in the side-streets are tall, massive and
sombre-looking, and here some of the wonderful old palaces remain. The
principal thoroughfares are commonplace; one has, as it were, to seek
out the beauties. It is