|
inistered; its walls covered with curious frescoes
of the sixteenth century, chiefly portraits of the members of the
Cortes assembled in session. The rich carving of the room is in native
pine, and was finished in the sixteenth century, when art was still at
its best. A narrow gallery runs round the room supported by slender
columns. Below this are coats-of-arms and busts of the kings of Aragon,
with appropriate historical incidents. The ceiling is also elaborately
carved in lozenges encased in square panels. Not the smallest fragment
of the room has been left undecorated, and its refined, subdued tone is
lovely in the extreme. Here we found the sword and banner of Jayme el
Conquistador, which the Valencians place amongst their chief treasures.
The churches are numerous, but not specially interesting. San Salvador
possesses a rude expressive sculpture of the thirteenth century, a
curious image, supposed to have been carved by Nicodemus, and said to
have miraculously found its solitary way from Syria across the seas.
Not far from this is the Church, given to the Templars by James I. in
1238, when already a building of some antiquity. Here was the remarkable
tower of Alibufat, on which the Cross was first displayed. But like the
people of Zaragoza, who pulled down their leaning tower, so the
Valencians demolished the tower of Alibufat to widen a street. We have
seen that even their ancient walls were not spared. They have no respect
for antiquity; no love for the past. A modern spirit possesses them; a
love of pleasure and comfort; a desire to get money for the sake of
indulgence. Gay, lively, full of excitement and impulse, everything
yields to the passing moment.
Next we come to the once vast and splendid Convent of San Domingo, in
the days of its glory one of the richest and most powerful convents in
Spain, but now shorn of all its ecclesiastical element. Outlines alone
remain: the chapter-house and cloisters of late Gothic still beautiful
and refined. In a small chapel supported by four slender pillars San
Vincente Ferrer took upon him the vows of a monk.
[Illustration: SALON DE CORTES: AUDIENCIA.]
Of the religious ceremonies the most imposing is the Miserere which
takes place every Friday in the church of the Colegio del Patriarca.
High Mass is first given at nine o'clock. The music both at this and the
Miserere is magnificent. Many of the rank and fashion of Valencia are
constant in their attendance. Ladies
|