however, require
special instruction to fry without getting them into a cake) need less
than a minute. Potatoes require longer than most things; but the fat
need not be cooler at first, as would seem necessary, because they are
so full of water, even when well dried, that they cool the fat rapidly.

_Sauteing_ (a word that would be expressive of the process in English
would be a boon to writers on cooking).--The process generally meant by
"frying" is really sauteing; yet so general has been the misconception
among all but professed cooks, that one has to take the precaution in
giving directions for frying to say, "Fry _in deep_ fat." It ought to be
understood that to fry is to _immerse_ in hot fat. If some term suitable
for kitchen use could be found, half the difficulty would be over. In
old English books a very fair translation was used; they told you to
"toss the article in butter," but though it rendered saute "jump"
fairly, it did not express the process. There is neither tossing nor
jumping about it, unless an occasional shake to the pan be called so;
and as "flat frying," "dry frying," are awkward, the sooner we boldly
take saute into common use, and let it become a kitchen word as familiar
as fricassee (which surely must have been very unfamiliar once), the
better.

To saute--although every Bridget or Gretchen fancies she can do
it--requires nicety and care to do it well, and is far more difficult
than "frying in deep fat." The pan requires to be hot, also the fat or
butter used, which should cover the bottom of the pan; a bright fire is
required. Things that take long to cook require more fat than those that
require but a short time. Effort must be made to adjust the proportion,
as adding cold fat prevents browning. Veal cutlets and many other things
are far better sauted than fried. The articles sauted require to be
watched that they do not burn; yet they must not be too often turned, or
they will not brown--except, of course, such things as are chopped,
which require frequent stirring up.

In speaking of chilling articles coated with sauce to be fried, I
omitted to give the caution that, in the case of meats, care must be
taken not to leave them long enough to freeze the meat.

FOOTNOTES:

[88-*] See No. IV.

[89-*] See No. V.

[90-*] See No. II.

[90-[+]] See No. IV.

XI.

ENTREES OF MUTTON CUTLETS OR CHOPS.

_Mutton Cutlets a la Duchesse._--Take as many cutlets (or French chops)
a