the wing in two neatly;
drumsticks are to be chopped off close to the meat, and divided into two
fillets (if a large chicken or duck; leave game whole); cut the thigh in
two also. Trim very neatly; leave no hanging skin; indeed, when
filleting for _chaudfroids_ the skin should be entirely removed, and
both it and the leg-bones are removed for pies. When possible, it is
better not to use the drumsticks. From a chicken they make an admirable
"devil," and from game they help the bones and trimmings to make a rich
gravy; so it is no waste to discard them.

Cold pies are of two kinds: the one cooked in a terrine or dish without
pastry; the other in what the English call a "raised paste," and the
French a _pate chaude_. Those with paste--which is seldom eaten--are far
handsomer, but do not keep so well--that is to say, they must be eaten
within three or four days even in winter; while in a terrine carefully
kept in a cool airy place the pie will be good at the end of three
weeks.

On the other hand, the pie in a terrine is much less trouble to make.
Proceed as follows:

_Game Pie._--Make some force-meat thus: Fry a quarter of a pound of fat
ham cut in dice with half a pound of lean veal. Take the ham up before
it gets brown, as you do not need it crisp; when the veal is cooked take
that up also, and if there is enough of the ham fat in the pan, put in
half a pound of calf's liver cut up in dice, if not, saute it in
butter. In sauteing all these they must be often stirred, as you want
them well cooked and yet not very brown. When done they must be finely
chopped, then pounded in a mortar, with a small teaspoonful of salt, and
half a saltspoonful of pepper. Then add a dozen mushrooms chopped, and
mix the whole.

A game pie is usually made rather large, and the greater variety of game
used, the better; partridge, pheasant, grouse, hare, all help one
another, but at least two kinds are necessary. It must be boned and
neatly filleted into small joints. Put on all the bones and trimmings to
stew in three pints of water, with a good-sized carrot, onion, a stick
of celery, a small bouquet, a clove, a teaspoonful of sugar, one of
salt, and a little pepper; boil all this until the bones look white and
dry when out of the stock. Strain, and reduce by rapid boiling to a
half-glaze; put a layer of the force-meat at the bottom of the dish,
then one of boned game, with a sprinkling of pepper and salt, and either
a little finely choppe