n winter. It should also be thoroughly chilled,
and if the day is very warm it would be better to set the bowl
containing it on ice while whipping it. Put in the whip, or egg-beater,
and _do not_ lift the froth off as it rises; it is quite unnecessary if
the vessel you use for the cream is large enough. As you see it begin to
thicken, which will be after steady beating for five or six minutes,
keep on just as you would for white of eggs. When the beater is
withdrawn you should be able to cut the cream or pile it any height. If
by reason of excessive heat it is slow in reaching the proper
consistency, leave the beater in the bowl, and set the whole on the ice
until very cold again.

The consistency of jelly should be only just stiff enough to keep form.
It should shake and tremble while being served instead of remaining
solid. It requires some little practice to make sure of this every time,
although exact proportions be given. A tablespoonful difference in the
pint or gill measure would, where the gelatine is only just enough,
cause the jelly to "squat"--not an elegant term, but one that represents
the form of a too soft jelly.

A very exact recipe for plain claret jelly, and which in proportions
serves for any other unless special mention is made of some variation,
is as follows: Three quarters of a pint of water, one pint of claret, a
quarter of a pint of lemon juice (this makes one quart of liquid), the
rind of one lemon, half an inch of cinnamon in the stick and two cloves,
one tablespoonful of red currant jelly, two ounces of gelatine, the
whites and shells of two eggs, a few drops of cochineal, and four ounces
of sugar; put all in a stewpan, the gelatine having been softened in a
little of the water; whisk over the fire until the whole boils; then
draw it off, let it stand for five to ten minutes; strain through
flannel or fine linen _without pressure_, add a few drops of cochineal
to brighten the color, and mould for use.

Use great care in selecting cinnamon, for very much that is sold is not
the true spice, but a cheaper one (cassia) that resembles it. Cinnamon
has a bright tan-color, is rolled many times, and is not much thicker
than paper when a piece is unrolled. Cassia is thicker in the roll, a
dull brown, and if a piece is broken is like a piece of wood. It is
similar in flavor, but much coarser, and has little strength.

XXIV.

JELLIES.--_Continued._

If it is kept in mind that two ounces o