d top with an egg beaten with milk, and
return the pie to the oven that the sides may brown; cover the top, if
it is already highly colored, with a sheet of paper. Remove the bone
from the centre, insert a small funnel, and after removing all fat from
it, pour in the gravy from the bones. The gravy must be poured very
slowly or it will bubble up, and care must be taken to have all the pie
will hold, yet not a drop too much, or it will ooze somewhere. These
pies, when quite cold, may be sent any distance, and are much used in
England and Scotland for hunting-parties, besides being a standard
breakfast and luncheon dish. The crust is merely a frame to hold the
game.

XXI.

GARNISHES.

In all choice cookery the appearance of dishes has to be carefully
studied. However good the taste may be, the effect will be spoiled if
its appearance on the table does not come up to the expectation raised
by the name on the _menu_. For this reason the subject of garnishes
requires to be considered apart from the dishes they adorn. In the old
time garnishes were few and simple, and when not simple, very ugly, as
the camellias cut from turnips and stained with beet juice. Nowadays
garnishes are many, and many so termed form part of the dish, as what
are termed, "floating garnishes for soup," quenelles, etc. Garnishes
that are merely ornamental need not be so expensively made as those
intended for eating. Foremost among fashionable floating garnishes for
soup are the colored custards known as pate royale; they are perfectly
easy to make, yet very effective served in clear bouillon.

_Colored Custard._--Prepare the custard with five yolks of eggs, a gill
of cream or strong bouillon, and a pinch of salt; butter small saucers
or cups; divide the custard in three--color one with spinach juice or
pulp of green asparagus, another with red tomato pulp or the pulp of red
carrot boiled, and a third with pulp of beets. A few drops of cochineal
may be added to intensify the color of the last, which is apt to be a
beautiful pink instead of red. The custard for which pulps are used must
be strained after they are added, expressing as much of the juice as
possible. The custard should be flavored delicately with the vegetable
used for color.

_Spinach Juice_ is very frequently directed to be used as coloring, but
scarcely anywhere is any indication given that the juice without
preparation is of very little use. It should be prepared as follow