er of making the mixture is about the same for all kinds of
meats, fish, or game, varying only in flavor--a little wine, a little
onion, or sweet herbs taking the place of the mushrooms in some cases--I
will give exact directions for making sweetbread cutlets; chicken, game,
or fish may be substituted for the sweetbreads, naming them accordingly.
The ham may always be omitted where the flavor is objected to. For
those who like it, it adds very much to sweetbreads, but would be out of
place with game, which should depend on its own individual flavor.

_Cutlets of Sweetbreads._--Soak a pair of sweetbreads in salt and water
for an hour--longer if there is much blood about them; then cook them
half an hour in stock. Drain them and let them get cold. Trim off all
superfluous fat and gristle; chop them with one ounce of lean boiled ham
to each pair of large sweetbreads, and half a can of mushrooms, a small
teaspoonful of salt, the sixth of one of pepper. Put an ounce of flour
in a small thick saucepan with an ounce of butter; stir them together
over the fire until they bubble; then add a half-pint of liquid
consisting of a gill of stiff jellied stock and a gill of thick cream;
stir till they boil and form a smooth sauce; mix the sweetbread mixture
with the sauce.

The mixture should be a soft, creamy mass, not in any way so stiff as
sausage-meat, or so as to remain in a heap without spreading; when
poured on a plate, it should be of a consistency that will _slowly_
settle, yet there must not be any liquid whatever. On this question of
consistency depends the quality of the croquettes, cutlets, etc., made
from it. If too stiff, they will be dry and only a superior sort of hash
ball. What you have to aim at is a croquette or cutlet that will ooze
out of the thin shell of egg and crumb when pressed with a fork. Success
in attaining this can always be secured by taking care to moisten the
minced meat with a sauce made of _very stiff jelly_ in the proportion of
half a pint of liquid (the melted jelly and cream) and one ounce each of
flour and butter. This will mix a pint of sweetbread and mushrooms, or
rather less of dry meat, such as the breast of chicken, veal, etc.

I dwell on this point because this class of entrees is always popular,
and if the consistency is once well understood, success is certain to
follow.

When the mixture is poured into shallow dishes or plates, a piece of
buttered paper should be laid over them, and