in aspic to cover the bird a
quarter of an inch. Put on ice. Turn out, and on the top of each strew
pistachio nuts chopped very fine. Insert the two feet of the bird,
scalded and dried, to stand up from the centre.

_Chaudfroid of Reed-birds._--Prepare as in last recipe with _pate de
foie gras_ force-meat. Butter a dozen dariole moulds. Put a bird in
each, breast downward; put the dariole moulds in a pan with a little
water, and set it in the oven for fifteen minutes; when cold, turn out
the birds, wipe them, dip each in brown _chaudfroid_ sauce, and put them
on a dish to cool. When cold, lay them in rows against a pile of chopped
aspic.

_Brown Chaudfroid Sauce_ is made by putting a pint of Spanish sauce, a
gill of cream, half a pint of aspic jelly together, and boiling them
until they are reduced one quarter. Skim constantly, and strain for use.

_White Chaudfroid Sauce_ is simply bechamel and aspic treated in the
same way. It differs, of course, from plain bechamel in having the
piquant flavor of the aspic; in appearance there is little difference.

XVIII.

COLD ENTREES.

_Iced Savory Souffle._--This dish can be made of fish, game, or chicken,
but is considered best made of crab. Cut up the crab, or whatever it may
be, into small pieces; let it soak in mayonnaise sauce for two or three
hours. Have some well-flavored aspic jelly, half liquid; whip it till it
is very frothy; put some of this at the bottom of the dish it is to be
served in--a silver one is most effective; then place a layer of crab
well seasoned, and fill it up with aspic and crab alternately until the
dish is nearly full; place a band of stiff paper round, and fill in with
whipped aspic; set it on ice for two hours; take off the paper, and
serve.

_Savories._--Within the last few years, which may, perhaps, be called
the renaissance of cooking in England, since Kettner, in his "Book of
the Table," shows that in the Middle Ages that country was famous for
its cuisine, while France was still benighted--within the last few
years, then, there has grown up a fashion of introducing preparations
called _savories_. They vary very much, from the tiny little _bouchette_
of something very piquant, to be taken between courses as an
appetizer--which, I believe, was the original idea--to quite important
dishes suitable as entrees for formal breakfasts or suppers. But it is
with the original "savory" as a piquant mouthful that they will take
their pl