ay or Denmark; the poor burn turf,
to which they frequently add bones and other offal of fish, which
naturally engender a most disagreeable smoke.

On entering one of these cottages, the visitor is at a loss to determine
which of the two is the more obnoxious--the suffocating smoke in the
passage or the poisoned air of the dwelling-room, rendered almost
insufferable by the crowding together of so many persons. I could almost
venture to assert, that the dreadful eruption called Lepra, which is
universal throughout Iceland, owes its existence rather to the total want
of cleanliness than to the climate of the country or to the food.

Throughout my subsequent journeys into the interior, I found the cottages
of the peasants every where alike squalid and filthy. Of course I speak
of the majority, and not of the exceptions; for here I found a few rich
peasants, whose dwellings looked cleaner and more habitable, in
proportion to the superior wealth or sense of decency of the owners. My
idea is, that the traveller's estimate of a country should be formed
according to the habits and customs of the generality of its inhabitants,
and not according to the doings of a few individuals, as is often the
case. Alas, how seldom did I meet with these creditable exceptions!

The neighbourhood of Havenfiord is formed by a most beautiful and
picturesque field of lava, at first rising in hills, then sinking into
hollows, and at length terminating in a great plain which extends to the
base of the neighbouring mountains. Masses of the most varied forms,
often black and naked, rise to the height of ten or fifteen feet, forming
walls, ruined pillars, small grottoes, and hollow spaces. Over these
latter large slabs often extend, and form bridges. Every thing around
consists of suddenly cooled heaped-up masses of lava, in some instances
covered to their summits with grass and moss; this circumstance gives
them, as already stated, the appearance of groups of stunted trees.
Horses, sheep, and cows were clambering about, diligently seeking out
every green place. I also clambered about diligently; I could not tire
of gazing and wondering at this terribly beautiful picture of
destruction.

After a few hours I had so completely forgotten the hardships of my
passage, and felt myself so much strengthened, that I began my journey to
Reikjavik at five o'clock on the evening of the same day. Herr Knudson
seemed much concerned for me; he warned me t