ter,
and sometimes even a bottle of wine or a bowl of punch. In winter the
proprietor gives balls in these apartments, charging 20 kr. for each
ticket of admission. Here the town grandees and the handicraftsmen, in
fact all who choose to come, assemble; and the ball is said to be
conducted in a very republican spirit. The shoemaker leads forth the
wife of the Stiftsamtmann to the dance, while that official himself has
perhaps chosen the wife or daughter of the shoemaker or baker for his
partner. The refreshments consist of "tea-water" and bread and butter,
and the room is lighted with tallow candles. The music, consisting of a
kind of three-stringed violin and a pipe, is said to be exquisitely
horrible.

In summer the dignitaries make frequent excursions on horse-back; and on
these occasions great care is taken that there be no lack of provisions.
Commonly each person contributes a share: some bring wine, others cake;
others, again, coffee, and so on. The ladies use fine English
side-saddles, and wear elegant riding-habits, and pretty felt hats with
green veils. These jaunts, however, are confined to Reikjavik; for, as I
have already observed, there is, with the exception of this town, no
place in Iceland containing more than two or three stores and some
half-dozen cottages.

To my great surprise, I found no less than six square piano-fortes
belonging to different families in Reikjavik, and heard waltzes by our
favourite composers, besides variations of Herz, and some pieces of
Liszt, Wilmers, and Thalberg. But such playing! I do not think that
these talented composers would have recognised their own works.

In conclusion, I must offer a few remarks relative to the travelling in
this country.

The best time to choose for this purpose is from the middle of June to
the end of August at latest. Until June the rivers are so swollen and
turbulent, by reason of the melting snows, as to render it very dangerous
to ride through them. The traveller must also pass over many a field of
snow not yet melted by the sun, and frequently concealing chasms and
masses of lava; and this is attended with danger almost as great. At
every footstep the traveller sinks into the snow; and he may thank his
lucky stars if the whole rotten surface does not give way. In September
the violent storms of wind and rain commence, and heavy falls of snow may
be expected from day to day.

A tent, provisions, cooking utensils, pillows, be