tain air of dignity assumed
by the ladies here; an air which, except when it is natural, or has
become so from long habit, is apt to degenerate into stiffness and
incivility. On meeting an acquaintance, the ladies of Reikjavik would
bend their heads with so stately and yet so careless an air as we should
scarcely assume towards the humblest stranger. At the conclusion of a
visit, the lady of the house only accompanies the guest as far as the
chamber-door. If the husband be present, this civility is carried a
little further; but when this does not happen to be the case, a stranger
who does not know exactly through which door he can make his exit, may
chance to feel not a little embarrassed. Excepting in the house of the
"Stiftsamtmann" (the principal official on the island), one does not find
a footman who can shew the way. In Hamburgh I had already noticed the
beginnings of this dignified coldness; it increased as I journeyed
further north, and at length reached its climax in Iceland.

Good letters of recommendation often fail to render the northern grandees
polite towards strangers. As an instance of this fact, I relate the
following trait:

Among other kind letters of recommendation, I had received one addressed
to Herr von H---, the "Stiftsamtmann" of Iceland. On my arrival at
Copenhagen, I heard that Herr von H--- happened to be there. I therefore
betook myself to his residence, and was shewn into a room where I found
two young ladies and three children. I delivered my letter, and remained
quietly standing for some time. Finding at length that no one invited me
to be seated, I sat down unasked on the nearest chair, never supposing
for an instant that the lady of the house could be present, and neglect
the commonest forms of politeness which should be observed towards every
stranger. After I had waited for some time, Herr von H--- graciously
made his appearance, and expressed his regret that he should have very
little time to spare for me, as he intended setting sail for Iceland with
his family in a short time, and in the interim had a number of weighty
affairs to settle at Copenhagen; in conclusion, he gave me the friendly
advice to abandon my intention of visiting Iceland, as the fatigues of
travelling in that country were very great; finding, however, that I
persevered in my intention, he promised, in case I set sail for Reikjavik
earlier than himself, to give me a letter of recommendation. All this
w