es, I
thanked my guardian-angel for these discomforts, looking upon them as a
preparation for what was to befall me in the far North.

Passing several small towns and villages, we at length entered the
Bohemian territory, close behind Iglau. The first town which we saw was
Czaslau, with its large open square, and a few neat houses; the latter
provided with so-called arbours (or _verandahs_), which enable one to
pass round the square dry-footed, even in the most rainy weather.

Journeying onwards, we noticed the fine cathedral and town of Kuttenberg,
once famous for its gold and silver mines. {4} Next comes the great
tobacco-manufactory of Sedlitz, near which we first see the Elbe, but
only for a short time, as it soon takes another direction. Passing the
small town of Collin, we are whirled close by the battle-field where, in
the year 1757, the great King Frederick paid his score to the Austrians.
An obelisk, erected a few years since to the memory of General Daun,
occupies a small eminence on the right. On the left is the plain of
Klephorcz, where the Austrian army was drawn up. {5}

At eleven o'clock on the same night we reached

PRAGUE.

As it was my intention to pursue my journey after two days, my first walk
on the following morning was to the police-office, to procure a passport
and the all-important pass-warrant; my next to the custom-house, to take
possession of a small chest, which I had delivered up five days before my
departure, and which, as the expeditor affirmed, I should find ready for
me on my arrival at Prague. {6} Ah, Mr. Expeditor! my chest was not
there. After Saturday comes Sunday; but on Sunday the custom-house is
closed. So here was a day lost, a day in which I might have gone to
Dresden, and even visited the opera.

On Monday morning I once more hastened to the office in anxious
expectation; the box was not yet there. An array of loaded wagons had,
however, arrived, and in one of these it might be. Ah, how I longed to
see my darling little box, in order that I might--_not_ press it to my
heart, but unpack it in presence of the excise officer!

I took merely a cursory glance at Prague, as I had thoroughly examined
every thing there some years before. The beautiful "Graben" and
Horse-market once more excited my admiration. It was with a peculiar
feeling that I trod the old bridge, from which St. John of Nepomuk was
cast into the Moldau for refusing to publish the confession