ithout. The plan of having stalls in front of the boxes in the
second and third galleries was a novelty to me. The orchestra I could
only hear, but could not discover its whereabouts; most probably it was
posted behind the scenes. On inquiry, I was told that this was only done
on extraordinary occasions, when the seats in the orchestra were
converted into stalls, as was the case on the night of my visit. The
play given was "the original Tartuffe," a popular piece by Gutzkow. It
was capitally performed.

In the Leipzig theatre I had a second opportunity of observing, that as
regards the love of eating our good Saxons are not a whit behind the
much-censured Viennese. In the Dresden theatre I had admired a couple of
ladies who sat next me. They came provided with a neat bag, containing a
very sufficient supply of confectionery, to which they perseveringly
applied themselves between the acts. But at Leipzig I found a
delicate-looking mother and her son, a lad of fifteen or sixteen years,
regaling themselves with more solid provisions--white bread and small
sausages. I could not believe my eyes, and had made up my mind that the
sausages were artificially formed out of some kind of confectionery--but
alas! my nose came forward but too soon, as a potent witness, to
corroborate what I was so unwilling to believe!

Neither did these two episodes take place in the loftiest regions of
Thalia's temple, but in the stalls of the second tier.

Beautiful alleys are planted round Leipzig. I took a walk into the
Rosenthal (Valley of Roses), which also consists of splendid avenues and
lawns. A pretty coffee-house, with a very handsome alcove, built in a
semicircular form, invites the weary traveller to rest and refreshment,
while a band of agreeable music diffuses mirth and good humour around.

The rest of the scenery around Leipzig presents the appearance of a vast
and monotonous plain.

April 17th.

I had intended to continue my journey to Hamburgh via Berlin, but the
weather was so cold and stormy, and the rain poured down so heavily, that
I preferred the shorter way, and proceeded by rail to Magdeburg. Flying
through the dismal plain past Halle, Kothen, and other towns, of which I
could only discern groups of houses, we hurriedly recognised the Saale
and the Elbe; and towards 10 o'clock in the morning arrived at Magdeburg,
having travelled seventy miles in