oung onions and any of the green sweet herbs; the five
first named varieties are the most generally used. Sometimes tomatoes
and cucumbers are served here in this, although they more properly
belong, the cucumbers with the fish; and the tomatoes with a
_mayonnaise_ among the cold _entrees_. The best dressing for a green
salad is of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper; a salad with _mayonnaise_
belongs among the cold _entrees_, as do the salads of cold cooked
vegetables. A little old, rich cheese may be served with the green salad
if desired.

DESSERT (_Dessert_). The dessert consists of the small cold sweets, such
as _eclairs_, fancy cakes called _petits-fours_, confectionery, candied
fruits, nuts, individual moulded jellies, ices and creams, _glaces_ and
_cafe noir_. When the dessert is divided in two parts, the dishes called
_glaces_ or ices are served first; these include every sweet which can
be crystalized, frozen or iced; after them comes the dessert proper,
composed of candied and dry fruits, nuts, bonbons and little fancy
cakes, or _petit-fours_, with the cheese and coffee at the last.

In preparing the various dishes for the dinner which can be made ready
in advance, either uncooked or for cold service, the oysters or clams on
the half-shell are to be kept on the ice until just before the dinner is
announced; they are then to be arranged on appropriate plates and set
at each cover, the oyster-plate being placed on a large dinner plate,
which is to be removed with it when the hot plate is placed for the soup
or fish. A bit of lemon is to be put in the center of the oyster plate,
six half-shells with oysters being served on each plate (except in
California, where one can consume at least a dozen of the small
delicious native bivalves). The small oyster-fork is laid either upon
the plate or beside it on the table. After the shell-fish are eaten, the
guest leaves the fork upon the plate so that it can be removed with it.
Plates of brown bread, cut very thin and buttered, are placed upon the
table with the shell-fish, and removed with them. If this bread is
intended for use with the salad, it should be served in one compartment
of a fancy basket or dish; the other divisions containing biscuit,
crackers, old cheese, olives and small relishes. The basket containing
the bread, etc., should be removed from the table with the salad. All
plates are removed from and the various dishes passed at the guest's
left hand; the wine i