sault--The goal reached.

CHAPTER V.

Descending the "back bone"--Approach of clouds--An unfortunate
slip--Floundering in the snow--In danger--An awkward descent--In and out
of the snow--The "Cabane" at last--Delicious repose--The journey
resumed--Re-crossing the Glacier--A thunderstorm in the Forest des
Pelerins--Welcome back.

CHAPTER VI.

A few words on our complexions--Certificates procured--Ladies'
preparation for an attempt--Nipped in the bud--Concluding remarks.

APPENDIX.

A brief account of some of the most noted ascents--Routes to Chamonix
from the Lake of Geneva.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

THE VALLEY OF CHAMONIX _Frontispiece._

MONT BLANC FROM THE BREVENT, SHEWING THE ROUTE 13

THE GLACIER DES BOSSONS 18

THE "CABANE" ON THE GRANDS MULETS 26

MONT BLANC FROM THE COL DE BALME 42

COMING DOWN THE GLACIER DES BOSSONS 50

DIAGRAM SHEWING THE RELATIVE HEIGHTS OF MONT BLANC AND SNOWDON 56

MAP OF ROUTES TO CHAMONIX 72

_CHAPTER I._

"And thou, fresh breaking Day, and you, ye Mountains,
Why are ye beautiful?"

On a delightful evening in the month of July, 1881, table d'hote being
over, my friend S---- and myself were seated under the verandah of the
hotel d'Angleterre at Chamonix; there were many others besides
ourselves, chiefly English and Americans, grouped in parties, some
taking their coffee, others smoking, and all devoting their attention to
the summit of Mont Blanc whose diadem of snow was being warmed in colour
if not in reality by the last rays of the setting sun. Though seven
miles off as the crow flies it seemed much nearer, and it was hard to
realize that some twelve or fourteen hours of incessant toil must be
undergone before the foot could be planted on that rounded crest of
eternal snow, that guide and porter must be employed, and that ropes
and ice-axes must be brought into requisition before those apparently
gently-sloping hills of pure white down could be traversed. They looked
so smooth, so inviting, and so incapable of doing any one harm.

The summit changed from gold to grey, the dome and Aiguille du Goute
faded from view, the Grands Mulets were no