to sketch or merely admire
the view as the fancy took us. At half-past eight we reached the little
wayside inn on the Col de Forclaz (5,000 feet above the sea). Here we
breakfasted, and exchanged our carriage for one that had just conveyed a
party from Chamonix. This is an arrangement that is commonly made for
the convenience of the coachmen. At about half-past nine we set off on
foot for the Col de Balme, having first given directions to our new man
to meet us at Le Tour at two o'clock. Having descended the western slope
of the hill, we reached a valley and crossed the torrent issuing from
the extremity of the Glacier du Trient, and immediately began to ascend
the eastern side of the mountain. The zig-zag paths were well shaded by
pine trees for a considerable distance, but in spite of this we found it
very hot work. The fact is we were utterly ignorant of the first
principles of mountain climbing, and walked too quickly. The consequence
was that we were fagged at the expiration of the second hour. There is
no greater mistake than to move rapidly on such expeditions, for by so
doing one's heart, lungs, and muscles, are unduly taxed, and when lofty
ascents are being made, such action would be fatal to the undertaking;
for, _if once the legs fail_--as a guide remarked to me when conversing
with him on the subject--it is useless attempting to go on. You may rest
for a while, and feel recruited, but the effect will not last, and a few
minutes after resuming the journey a painful sensation will be
experienced in the muscles of the legs, which will necessitate another
and perhaps a longer halt; and finally you will have to give in, and
return home. Fortunately for us, there were only a few hundreds of feet
to be mounted when the pace began to tell, or we might have been put to
serious inconvenience.

[Illustration]

At about eleven o'clock we had left the last tree behind, and continuing
our upward journey, the only vegetation to be seen consisted of small
plants--the pretty Alpine rose, a species of rhododendron, and turf.
Further on we came to large patches of snow, on reaching which there was
a marked diminution in the temperature, although the sun was shining
brightly and the air was calm. Nearing the summit, we passed a rude hut,
inhabited by two or three men, whose occupation is to look after a herd
of cows, the tinkling of whose bells was the only sound to be heard in
that wild place. As the snow gradually disappears