ses to three hundred and two francs, or about L6 each,
exclusive of a few extras that are not worth noting; I may say, however,
that the ascent is rarely made for so moderate a sum. The regulation
number of guides is as follows, viz., two guides and one porter for a
traveller, and one extra guide for each additional person, by which we
ought to have had three guides and one porter, but not having intended
to go further than the Grands Mulets we went with half the usual number,
and although we were perfect novices at the work, we got on admirably,
and do not quite see what advantage would have been gained by having a
larger number of attendants.

The next thing to be done was to pay a visit to the guides' office, and
on our way there Francois said, "Sir, will you explain to the chief that
when we started we had not intended going further than the Grands
Mulets, otherwise we shall be fined, because we were not on turn for the
ascent?" The chief listened attentively to my explanation, and then
remarked, "In that case they shall not be punished." We then signed our
names in the record book, and afterwards obtained certificates
surmounted by comical-looking sketches, supposed to represent the summit
with a party of tourists and guides in a variety of absurd attitudes.
These documents were numbered 768, which means that this was the seven
hundred and sixty-eighth ascent from Chamonix since Balmat successfully
reached the top on the 8th August, 1786. They were dated 20th July,
1881, and were signed by Francois, Jules, and Frederic Payot, the chief
guide.

Whilst lolling about during the remainder of the day, we were
"interviewed" pretty frequently, and the interest taken in our
adventures appeared to be as deep as though the ascent was a matter of
very rare occurrence. The first question invariably asked was, "Did you
suffer from the rarified air?" The answer to which was, "Not at all as
regards breathing, but we none of us had any appetite at a higher
elevation than the Grands Mulets." They did not, however, put the second
question, which one is always asked in England, "Did it repay you?"

How many are there, of the thousands who visit Chamonix every year, who
would not go to the top of Mont Blanc if the journey could be as easily
performed as on the Rigi? But risk to life and limb, mountain sickness,
wet feet, and rather more walking than they have a fancy for, keeps
them in the lower regions, from which they content them