lock, tired, parched, and our lower
extremities wet through. S---- forthwith threw himself on a bed, and
was sound asleep in a moment. Our trusty fellows disappeared, and having
taken off my boots I had some luncheon, with a bottle of beer, which was
perfect nectar. I lay down on one of the beds, and smoked the pipe of
peace. We had allowed ourselves a rest of an hour and a half; at 3-30
p.m., time being up, we once more and for the last time got into
harness, and ten minutes afterwards quitted the "Cabane." We worked our
way down the rugged rocks at a quick pace, for the weather had changed
and a thunderstorm was rapidly approaching. Heavy clouds were rolling up
the valley, and ever and anon a clap of thunder pealed forth,
reverberating amongst the mountains. "I am very anxious to cross the
glacier before the rain comes down." "Very well, Francois, go ahead as
fast as you like, and we won't stop you." So down the slopes of snow we
went at a rapid pace, soon arriving on the ice. Our route was not the
same as on going up, in consequence of a change in the crevasses; they
are always changing, for the glacier, as I have before explained, never
remains still, moving forward at the rate of some three feet or even
more per day.

[Illustration: COMING DOWN THE GLACIER DES BOSSONS.]

On the whole we found the work less trying than on the previous day.
Whether it was really so, or only by comparison, I cannot tell; however,
there were one or two awkward bits to dispose of, one, especially, which
was a perpendicular face of ice forming the side of a deep crevasse,
along which we worked our way by stepping into holes cut into it at
every two or three feet, and by gripping the ice in notches which were
hewn out for this purpose. Then the ropes were untied, and we felt like
colts unloosed. The remaining portion of the glacier was speedily
crossed; the rocky base of the Aiguille du Midi was traversed at a run;
the little torrents were bounded over; the rude zig-zag paths, covered
with rolling stones, were scampered down, and Pierre Pointue was safely
reached. Here we paid our bill for board and lodging at the Grands
Mulets, and whilst refreshing ourselves, we were rather amused at
hearing an altercation between the "foreigners"--who, by the way, had
made the ascent--and the landlord respecting the price of a bottle of
wine! This was the last we saw of them.

We now commenced the final stages of our journey, and a wet one it
proved