us to perceive that
substantial progress was being made.

The first stage of mountain climbing in these parts is decidedly
tiresome; the forest is so thick one can see little else besides, and
there is a monotony in the operation that would be unendurable were it
not for the end in view. The trees at length became more scarce and
stunted, and after two hours of this unexciting work they disappeared
altogether; Pierre Pointue was reached, and the first stage of our
journey was thus accomplished. Here we breakfasted. I spent some time in
sketching this spot with its unassuming little buildings, and the
Aiguille du Goute in the back ground. We then moved on without the mule
and boy, and worked our way round the face of the mountain, the rock
being perpendicular to the left, and on our right a precipice, but the
track was sufficiently wide to enable us to walk in comfort and without
experiencing any of those feelings of nervousness which Albert Smith
felt when passing over the same ground thirty years ago.

Three quarters of an hour after leaving Pierre Pointue, we reached
Pierre a l'Echelle, against whose side was reared a strong ladder which
is kept for use when the crevasses are too wide to be crossed without
its assistance. Its services were not, however, required on this
occasion.

Before introducing my readers to the Glacier des Bossons, which we were
about to traverse, I may remark that opinions differ widely as to the
difficulties and dangers of the undertaking. Some make very light of
them, while others lead one to suppose that nothing short of cat-like
agility, combined with heroic courage, could surmount the obstacles. The
fact is, that leaving out of consideration experience, nerve, and
surefootedness, the crossing of the Glacier may be comparatively easy
one day, and beset with dangers another, the difficulties varying with
the state of the ice, which is constantly changing. New crevasses are
being formed, and those already in existence alter from day to day, so
that great skill is required on the part of the guides to select a
feasible route. Then, again, a snow bridge, consisting of a mere lump of
snow jammed into the upper part of a wide crevasse, may bear one's
weight or not according to a variety of circumstances, so after making
due allowance for the disparagement of difficulties on the one hand,
and the exaggeration of them on the other, it may fairly be said that
walking over the Bossons is not exac