to scale one of the sides, I
was surprised to see him direct his steps to the centre. "Surely he
does not intend to go up that frightful ridge! He does, though!" and on
reaching it he informed us that it was the Mauvaise Arete; and a more
wicked _back-bone_ could scarcely be conceived.

This was the spot which was visited by Pierre Balmat, Marie Couttet,
Francois Paccard, and several others, when exploring the mountain on the
8th of June, 1786. They described it as a "huge ridge which connected
the top of Mont Blanc with the Dome du Goute, but it was so steep and
narrow that its passage was impossible;" and having concluded that the
summit was inaccessible by this route, they returned to Chamonix. The
Corridor and Mur de la Cote is the route generally followed, but this
one is somewhat shorter and less fatiguing, though more difficult. It
cannot, however, be made use of unless the weather is calm. Speaking for
myself, I did not relish the prospect of climbing that knife edge, which
was frightfully steep, scarcely a foot in width, apparently several
hundred feet high, and its sides not very far removed from the
perpendicular. Acting on the principle that when a disagreeable thing
has to be done the sooner the better, we did not linger at the base, but
went straight at it, slowly and with the greatest care, for we were now
on ice. Before taking a step our alpenstocks were firmly driven in,
which was a most laborious operation, although the surface was
sufficiently soft to enable us to do so by stabbing it several times on
each occasion. Francois had by far the heaviest task to perform, for he
had constantly to use his axe in cutting steps. How long this went on I
am unable to say, perhaps half an hour, most likely more; all I know is
that ultimately we found ourselves standing in a happy frame of mind on
the snow, which was almost level, and here we rested, panting, after our
exertions, and then walking forward almost on a level the foot of the
last slope was soon reached, and now the final assault was begun.

The work was very stiff, though by no means difficult or dangerous, and
we stopped more than once. Feeling very tired I remarked to Francois:

"Well, I confess that I am fatigued."

"And so are we, sir," was his laconic reply.

During the whole of the ascent I had not experienced so much difficulty
in walking as now. I felt as though I had a greater weight to support,
and compare the work to carrying a heavy loa