shafts are connected by the duga, which
looks like a gigantic, badly formed horseshoe rising high above
the collar of the trotter. To the top of the duga is attached the
bearing-rein, and underneath the highest part of it is fastened a big
bell--in the southern provinces I found two, and sometimes even three
bells--which, when the country is open and the atmosphere still, may be
heard a mile off. The use of the bell is variously explained. Some say
it is in order to frighten the wolves, and others that it is to avoid
collisions on the narrow forest-paths. But neither of these explanations
is entirely satisfactory. It is used chiefly in summer, when there is no
danger of an attack from wolves; and the number of bells is greater in
the south, where there are no forests. Perhaps the original intention
was--I throw out the hint for the benefit of a certain school of
archaeologists--to frighten away evil spirits; and the practice has been
retained partly from unreasoning conservatism, and partly with a view to
lessen the chances of collisions. As the roads are noiselessly soft,
and the drivers not always vigilant, the dangers of collision are
considerably diminished by the ceaseless peal.

Altogether, the tarantass is well adapted to the conditions in which it
is used. By the curious way in which the horses are harnessed it recalls
the war-chariot of ancient times. The horse in the shafts is compelled
by the bearing-rein to keep his head high and straight before
him--though the movement of his ears shows plainly that he would very
much like to put it somewhere farther away from the tongue of the
bell--but the side horses gallop freely, turning their heads outwards in
classical fashion. I believe that this position is assumed not from any
sympathy on the part of these animals for the remains of classical art,
but rather from the natural desire to keep a sharp eye on the driver.
Every movement of his right hand they watch with close attention, and as
soon as they discover any symptoms indicating an intention of using the
whip they immediately show a desire to quicken the pace.

Now that the reader has gained some idea of what a tarantass is, we may
return to the modes of travelling through the regions which are not yet
supplied with railways.

However enduring and long-winded horses may be, they must be allowed
sometimes, during a long journey, to rest and feed. Travelling long
distances with one's own horses is therefore ne