t every gorge, to feed some rapid river in the
plains beyond. I was intently occupied speculating upon the chances
whether the diligence would be swept along with other floating matter,
or ultimately stranded on dry land; for not long before, one of these
same vehicles had been caught in a freshet--carried some distance,
drowning three insides. But fortunately, we steered clear of these
dangers by flood and coach--with saturated garments--and were soon
safely housed in the comfortable fonda.

Much to my chagrin, the rain prevented a visit to the great mines of La
Luz. They are said to be the largest in the world, and well worthy of a
sight, employing no less than fifteen thousand workmen, including their
families. The owner died in Queretero the day previous to my departure,
bequeathing a fortune of twenty millions of dollars to his heirs.

I left Guanajuato before daylight--the heavens were dropping tears,
although not sufficiently lacrymose to keep the gorges surcharged, and
thus we again escaped coach-wreck. We reached Leon to a late
breakfast--there I exchanged the youthful valet Juan for my horse
equipments, and having but a single companion in the person of an
Englishman bound to Zacatecas, we continued the route: the cocheros
swore there were none other than virtuous people in that vicinity and we
had no fears of being molested: the road became rocky and
uneven--occasionally no beaten track at all--and had not the coach and
our bones been constructed of the toughest materials, I imagine neither
could have reached Lagos--but we got there at three o'clock, with no
more serious mishap than being jolted asleep and awake, at least four or
five times in as many minutes.

Our stopping place was a decent little fonda, administered by an old
Spaniard. While standing in the gateway I observed two persons, and,
from something indescribable in their appearance, immediately accosted
them in Anglo-Saxon: they were North Americans, and had resided many
years in Mexico: they treated me kindly, and extended every assistance
in their power. I visited one and saw as pretty a wife and family as any
batchelor might envy. The town itself is extremely pretty--a remarkably
handsome church faces the Plaza--the houses elegantly adorned externally
in fanciful frescoes, with designs of flowers, wreaths, gardens, and
mythological figures, while a branch of the Rio Grande rushes swiftly
through the heart of the town, fringed with a profusio