-sent _kanakas_ and calibashes ahead,
and then got on the beasts once more on our return route. We shortly bid
adieu to the drizzling rain hanging above Kilauea, for a clearer
atmosphere. The same night we had more turkeys and more sleep at the
half-way house, and the following evening reached Hilo.

CHAPTER XL.

During the fortnight of our stay in the bay of Hilo, we had
opportunities of observing a fair sample of island life. It is a place
less visited than others of the Hawaiian group, and as a consequence,
the natives have lost nothing from a less constant association with more
civilized nations.

They still preserve, in a certain degree, old habits and heathenish
customs, though very much modified by the benevolent efforts of their
missionary pastors; yet there are many deeply rooted and immoral
practices, which the good teachers find a Herculean labor to eradicate.
Nevertheless, it must strike a stranger with surprise to find all those
demi-barbarians have been taught to read and write--exceedingly well
too--indeed the clean, well-defined caligraphy of the Hilo nymphs will
compare with that of the most fashionable style of the art in young
ladies' seminaries at home--they pay a strict outward observance to the
Sabbath, have a general knowledge of the Scriptures, and many of the
youth, a tolerable share of education.

The huts in the vicinity of towns and settlements are more comfortable
and habitable than in the days of Cook and Vancouver, partaking somewhat
in build, to the steep angular Dutch roof, but constructed of poles and
thatch, without windows, and with only a single entrance. Great
quantities of clean, well-made mats are piled about the floors, which
are couches for eating or sleeping; the bedstead is not used, and since
a deal of rain falls upon the windward side of the island, the health of
the population is seriously affected by the dampness of the ground.

The natives are amiable, good-natured, indolent beings, and approach
nearer to the _toujours gai_ than any people in existence. But let no
one, judging from their simplicity of manners, be so verdant as to
suppose he can win their hearts or produce with glass beads,
jack-knives, or any other species of baubles! Per-adventure he will
discover they have as correct an appreciation of silver, and can drive
as sharp a bargain, as ever the Jew out of Jerusalem. Still they were
obliging, and would attend us all day in our tramps and excursion