shadowed the frigate, and we said adieu, for the
last time, to Mazatlan.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

For twenty days after sailing from the Mexican coast, the steady
trade-wind drove the frigate merrily over the blue water, until one
evening we found ourselves, with wings furled and anchors down, within
shelter of the reefs and hills of the Bay of Hilo.

Near us nestled an enchanting little village, with straw huts and
cottages, half hidden beneath a perfect forest of flowers, banana, bread
fruit, and coffee trees, with here and there thick clusters of cocoanuts
shooting high in the air, like petals from the brilliant parterres at
their feet, waving rattling leaves and trunks in a very indolent and
graceful style peculiarly their own. Then the deep, velvety verdure
around gradually rose in green slopes, and receded far away in the
distance, until the scene was closed by the "twin giants of the
Pacific," Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. Nearer, along the fertile shores were
white rills leaping into the sea, groups of natives upon the beach, and
the little bay alive with slender and reed-like canoes, skimming like a
breath over the water, the broad paddles flashing in the sun, tempting
tropical fruits, reposing dewily in leafy baskets, the natives
themselves gesticulating and chattering with amazing volubility, which
added to the bright, fresh, novel, and glorious scenery of the island,
made a pleasing contrast to the parched Sierras and Tierra Caliente of
Mexico.

The day subsequent to our arrival chanced to be Sunday, and, soon after
breakfast, we pulled on shore. There was no reason for disappointment in
a closer view of the village. The richest and densest tropical foliage
shaded, and almost impeded the pathways. Native huts, with bleached
thatching, and pretty cottages of the missionaries, were peeping from
amid the groves. Streams of pure water were murmuring in every
direction, and the cool trade-wind was blowing breezily through the
branches of the trees. Altogether, the effect was quite exhilarating.

Large numbers of copper-hued natives, dressed in their gayest colors,
were waiting to receive us, and, stepping on shore, I resigned myself
with great docility to the guidance of a stout person, who, tapping an
embroidered crown on the sleeve of his coat, with a short baton,
informed me, with an expressive nod, that he was _kaiko_--king's man--in
other words, a guardian of the peace.

A few minutes' walk brought us to a