e right of church
taxation; when Cypriano, having had a fowl grilled, a bowl of frijoles,
bread, and country wine, snugly stowed in the _alforgas_, I informed my
acute acquaintances that I was bound to Guadalajara, bid them adios, and
after skirting the pretty town, turned to the opposite direction. It is
always advisable in Mexico while travelling, to avoid if possible
public places, and keep the destination secret; for the
_compadres_--highwaymen--are often in collusion with people about mesons
and derive information of the guests from those sources.

Striking a path on the banks of a pretty stream, we shortly found a
secluded nook, beneath a scrub olive-tree, where the beasts were bathed,
fed, and picketted in the rich grasses, when we did much the same, and
took a comfortable siesta beside them.

Towards evening resuming the journey, a few leagues carried us to
Aguacatlan; to preserve the strength of our animals for a thirty leagues
travel on the morrow, I concluded to remain until daylight. The spacious
fonda was filled with guests, and I made the acquaintance of an
agreeable young Irishman, from Tepic. In an adjoining room there was a
large family of senoritas, convoyed by a venerable matron and servants.
They were very chatty and amiable while sitting in the patio in front of
their domicile; so much so, in fact, that the senora became suspicious,
and, as my Milesian companion remarked, "_corral'd_ the doncellas too
early in the evening." The duenna had no compassion for bachelors, and
we saw no more of their fluttering white dresses and ribosas; though we
could hear them frolicking and shouting in great glee, which was very
provoking, as windows there were none, and Spanish bolts and portals
being famous for strength and solidity, we were obliged to relinquish
any further hope of their charming society.

It was getting late, old Cypriano was sitting at my door, enveloped in a
serapa, giving no signs of life, save the occasional reluming of the
cigarillo, like a dim glow-worm, betwixt his teeth. The honest fellow
needed rest, and saying _Buenos noches_ I threw myself upon the brick
bedstead, with saddle for pillow, and was soon asleep.

Before sunset on the following afternoon, my gallant little beast
galloped bravely into Tepic, and I was again made quite at home with Mr.
Bissell. A vessel was awaiting me at San Blas, but the passage being a
tedious one to Mazatlan by sea, I concluded to pursue the land route