, and are composed
of rubble-stone, mortar, sun-dried brick, and a variety of other
material; but not including wood. The low, iron-grated windows, so
universal in Spanish towns, are not wanting here, through the bars of
which, dark-eyed senoritas and laughing children watch us as we pass,
often exhibiting pleasant family groups which were photographed as
swiftly and as surely on the brain as a No. 2 Kodak instrument would
depict them. Some of our party, by the way, were very expert with their
Kodaks, and brought away with them illustrated records of their extended
journey which, for interest, would put these pen-and-ink sketches to
utter shame.

The pitched roofs of the low houses of Orizaba are covered with big red
tiles, which afford a sort of ventilation, as well as serving to throw
off the heat of the burning sun, while the dry earth seems to absorb it,
radiating a glimmer of heated air, like the sand dunes of Suez. It is
singular that everything should be so oriental in appearance, while it
would be puzzling to say exactly wherein lies the resemblance.

That there are numerous churches here goes without saying, and we may
add that two or three of them are quite imposing, while all are
suggestive, with a few crippled beggars standing like sentries at their
doors. An Indian artist, Gabriel Barranco, has contributed oil-paintings
of considerable merit to nearly all the churches in his native town. He
is still alive, or was so a couple of months since, and is a most
interesting conversationalist, though he is blind and decrepit. This
locality seems particularly liable to earthquakes in a mild form. The
largest church here has had its steeple overthrown three times, and the
towers on several others have been made to lean by the same agency, so
that they are considerably out of plumb. No earthquake, however, is
likely to make much headway against the low dwellings, which cling to
the ground like one's shoe to his foot. It is pleasant to mention that
several good schools have been established at Orizaba, supported by the
local government. These, we are told on good authority, are in a
flourishing condition in spite of all opposition from the church party.
There are four schools for boys and three exclusively for girls.
Bigotry may make a bold show, but it cannot prosper where a system of
free schools prevails.

A river runs through the city, lending a little life to the sleepy old
place, and affording ample water powe