or chimneys in the house, while
the other domestic accommodations are of the most primitive character.
As to food, the Iturbide is kept on the European plan, and one can order
according to his fancy. The service, however, is anything but neat or
clean. The meal-hours are divided as in France and continental Europe
generally: coffee and bread upon first rising, breakfast at noon, and
dinner at six o'clock in the evening. The proprietor has lately put into
service a very good steam elevator, which was at first deemed to be a
serious innovation. We heard of some rather ludicrous experiences which
occurred during the first few days of its use; but the people were very
soon reconciled to the comfort it afforded, and put aside their
prejudices. Even this elevator is so restricted in its running hours as
not to afford the guests the accommodation it should supply. As some one
has wittily said of the ballet-girl's costume, it begins too late and
leaves off too early.

The ice used in the city of Mexico comes from the top of the neighboring
range of mountains, but it is rarely seen except in bar-rooms, the
retail price being ten cents a pound. In order to obtain a cool
temperature for their drinking water, the people keep it in porous
earthen jars made by the native Indians. Rapid evaporation from the
outside of the vessels renders the water highly refreshing, indeed, cool
enough, the dry atmosphere is so very active an absorbent. The ice is
brought to the nearest railway station wrapped in straw, on the backs of
the peons, and is thus transported daily, no large quantity being kept
on hand.

Opening from the main patio of the Iturbide Hotel upon the level of the
street is a large billiard-saloon and bar-room combined. As our bedroom
was on the first chamber floor, and opened upon this patio, with a
little balcony and a long French window, we had the benefit nightly, as
well as daily, of all the ceaseless noises which usually emanate from
such a place. Billiard balls kept up their peculiar music until the wee
small hours of the morning, and all day on the Sabbath. The Mexicans,
like the Cubans, do not drink deep, but they drink often; and though it
is seldom that a respectably dressed person is seen intoxicated, either
on the streets or elsewhere, still the active bartenders of the Iturbide
drinking-saloon did not quit their posts until nearly broad daylight in
the morning. So our sleep in that palace hotel was achieved to the