l attraction in itself, the unsurpassed scenery to be enjoyed on
the route thither would amply repay the traveler for the brief journey.
At about twenty miles from the city of Mexico, it is found that we have
risen to an elevation of eleven hundred feet above it, from which point
delightful views present themselves, embracing the entire valley, its
various thrifty crops distinguishable by their many hues; here, yellow,
ripening grain; there, the blue-green maguey plant; and yonder, wide
patches of dark, nutritious alfalfa; together with irrigating streams
sparkling in the sunshine, enlivened here and there by groups of grazing
cattle. Now an adobe hamlet comes into view, the low whitewashed cabins
clustering about a gray old stone church. Creeping up the mountain paths
are long lines of toiling burros, laden from hoofs to ears with
ponderous packs, and on the dusty road are straggling natives, men and
women, bearing heavy loads of produce, of wood, pottery, and fruit, to
the nearest market; while not far away a ploughman, driving three mules
abreast, turns the rich black soil with his one-pronged, one-handled
plough. Villages and plantations are passed in rapid succession, where
scores of square, tower-like corn cribs, raised upon four standards, are
seen adjoining the low, picturesque farmhouses.

At Dos Rios (Two Rivers), half-clad, gypsy-looking women and young,
nut-brown girls besiege the passengers to partake of fresh pulque, which
they serve in small earthen mugs. Two stout engines are required to draw
us over the steep grade. The highest point reached is at Cima (The
Summit) twenty-four miles from the city of Mexico, and ten thousand feet
above the level of the sea. This is the most elevated station in the
country, seriously affecting the respiration of many of our party.
Indeed, any considerable exertion puts one quite out of breath at such
an altitude. The conductor of the train was an American, who had been
engaged upon this route for a year and more; but he assured the author
that he was as seriously affected by the great elevation as when he
first took the position. It was observed, however, that the natives did
not seem to experience any such discomfort.

From Cima we descend the western slope of the ridge by a series of
grand, abrupt curves through the valley of San Lazar, after having thus
crossed the range of mountains known as Las Cruces. The white-headed
peak of the Nevada de Toluca, over fifteen thous