measures ten
feet in diameter at the base, with a height exceeding forty feet.
Although broken and decayed in many of its parts, it is sufficiently
alive to bear foliage. The gray, drooping moss hangs from its decaying
branches, like a mourner's veil shrouding face and neck, emblematic of
the tears which the daring adventurer is said to have wept in its
shadow. An iron railing protects the tree from careless usage and from
the knives of ruthless relic hunters. A party of so-called ladies and
gentlemen--we are sorry to say they were Americans--broke off some of
the twigs of the tree, in 1885, to bring away with them. For this
vandalism they were promptly arrested, and very properly fined by a
Mexican court. Close by this interesting tree of the "Dismal Night"
stands the ancient church of San Esteban.

The practice prevails in the cities of Mexico that one sees in Cuba and
in continental Spain, as regards the signs which traders place over
their doors. The individual's name is never given, but the merchant
adopts some fancy one to designate his place of business. Seeing the
title "El Congreso Americana," "The American Congress," we were a little
disconcerted, on investigation, to find that it was the sign of a large
and popular bar-room. Near by was another sign reading thus: "El
Diablo," that is, "The Devil." This was over a pulque shop, which seemed
to be appropriately designated. Farther on towards the alameda was "El
Sueno de Amor," signifying "The Dream of Love." This was over a shop
devoted to the sale of serapes and other dry goods. On the Calle de San
Bernardo, over one of the entrances where dry goods were sold, was seen,
in large gold letters, "La Perla," "The Pearl." Again near the plaza we
read, "La Dos Republics," meaning "The Two Republics." This was a hat
store, with gorgeous sombreros displayed for sale. "El Recreo," "The
Retreat," was a billiard hall and bar-room combined, while not far away
"El Opalo," "The Opal," designated a store where dulces were sold. "La
Bomba," "The Bomb," was the sign over a saddle and harness shop. "El
Amor Cantivo," "Captive Love," was the motto of a dry goods store. "La
Coquetta," "The Coquette," was the title of a cigar shop.

These stores are almost all conducted by French or German owners, with
now and then a Jew of uncertain nationality; few are kept by Spaniards,
and none by Americans, or citizens of the United States. American
enterprise seeks expression here in a large