exico, whose tomb
bears the simple legend: "The Liberator." None more appropriate could
have been devised, for through him virtually was Mexican independence
won, though his erratic career finally ended so tragically.

Just outside of the main entrance of the cathedral, a middle-aged woman
was seen importuning the passers, and especially strangers, to purchase
lottery tickets, her voice being nearly drowned by the loud tongue of
the great bell in the western tower. Presently she thrust her budget of
tickets into her bosom and entered the cathedral, where she knelt before
one of the side altars, repeating incessantly the sign of the cross
while she whispered a formula of devotion. A moment later she was to be
seen offering her lottery tickets on the open plaza, no doubt believing
that her business success in their sale would be promoted by her
attendance before the altar. How groveling must be the ignorance which
can be thus blinded!

It may not be generally known that these lotteries are operated, to a
considerable extent, by the church, and form one of its never-failing
sources of income, proving more profitable even than the sale of
indulgences, though the latter is _all_ profit, whereas there is some
trifling expense attendant upon getting up a lottery scheme. A few
prizes must be distributed in order to make the cheat more plausible. As
to the validity of indulgences, one cannot actually test that matter on
this side of Lethe.

As will be seen, all classes of rogues are represented among the
apparently devout worshipers. On the occasion of our second visit to the
cathedral, a gentleman who had his pockets picked by an expert kneeling
devotee hastened for a policeman, and soon returning, pointed out the
culprit, who was promptly arrested; but, much to the disgust of the
complainant, he also was compelled to go with the officer and prisoner
to the police headquarters, where we heard that he recovered his stolen
property, though it cost him three quarters of a day's attendance at
some sort of police court, and about half the amount of the sum which
the rogue had abstracted.

All observant strangers visit the cemetery of San Fernando, which
adjoins the church of the same name. This is the Mount Auburn or Pere la
Chaise of Mexico, in a very humble sense, however. Here rest the ashes
of those most illustrious in the history of the country. One is
particularly interested in the tomb and monument of the greatest
states