ornamented boots! The Indian women who
had come to town to see the church ceremonials formed an unconscious but
interesting portion of the holiday show in their sky-blue or red
rebosas, and the variegated skirt wound about waists and hips, leaving
the brown limbs and bare feet exposed. They were gathered all about the
square, awaiting their opportunity; and as half a hundred came pouring
down the broad steps, others hastened to take their places inside the
church.

The cathedral already alluded to forms one whole side of the Plaza
Mayor. It is not quite so large as that of the city of Mexico, though it
has the effect of being so. Like that, it stands upon a raised platform,
built of dark porphyritic stone, the surface being five or six feet
above the level of the plaza. The principal front is in the Doric style;
but the two tall side towers are Ionic. The two domes, covered with the
glittering native tiles, throw back the sunlight with a dazzling mottled
effect. The chapels of the interior are perhaps a little tawdry with
their profuse gilding, and the main altar is dazzling with gold, having
cost, it is stated, over a hundred thousand dollars. The pulpit is
especially curious, and was carved by a native artist from onyx, which
came from a neighboring quarry. The floor is of marble, while that of
the more pretentious edifice at the city of Mexico is of wood, a token
indicative of more important matters wherein the Puebla cathedral is
superior in finish. The main roof, with its castellated cornice and many
pinnacles, its broken outlines, and crumbling, gray old stone sides, is
wonderfully picturesque.

Not many years ago there hung from the lofty ceiling a famous and most
beautiful golden lamp of exquisite workmanship, the intrinsic value of
which is said to have been over one hundred thousand dollars. During the
civil war it was ruthlessly broken up and coined into doubloons to aid
General Miramon to keep the field while representing the church party.
The bells attached to the cathedral are of the most costly character and
of superior excellence. These are eighteen in number, the largest of
which weighs about ten tons. One is at a loss to understand why so many
and so expensive bells are required, since they are not arranged as
chimes, and have no apparent connection with each other.

A typical picture is recalled which presented itself as we entered for
the first time the broad portal of the cathedral, where an old,