f the fat on it. The neck and shoulder also are very
good. They are used chiefly for stews or pies.

Hares and Rabbits

A hare when fresh killed is stiff and red; when stale, the body is
supple and the flesh in many parts black. If the hare be old the
ears will be tough and dry, and will not tear readily. Rabbits may
be judged in the same manner. In both, the claws should be smooth and
sharp. In a young hare the cleft in the lip is narrow, and the claws
are cracked readily if turned sideways.

Poultry

Poultry to be perfect, should have just reached their full growth (the
only exceptions to this are "spring chickens," ducklings, goslings,
etc., which are considered delicacies at certain seasons); they should
be plump, firm fleshed, and not over fatted. Over-fed fowls are often
a mass of greasy fat, which melts in the cooking and spoils the flavor
of the bird. A hen is at her best just before she begins to lay; her
legs should be smooth, her comb small, bright, and soft. A young cock
has the comb full, bright colored, and smooth, the legs smooth, the
spurs short, and in both the toes should break easily when turned
back, and the weight of the birds should be great in proportion to
their size. Contrary to the practice with game, poultry never should
be kept long, as they turn easily, and are spoilt if the least high.
They also require longer cooking, in proportion to their size, than
game, and never should be underdone. Dark-legged fowls are best for
roasting, as their flesh is moister and better flavored cooked in this
way than the white-legged ones, which from their greater daintiness of
appearance are to be preferred for boiling.

_Turkeys_ should be plump, white-fleshed, young, the legs plump and
firm, black and smooth, with (in the cock) short spurs, the feet soft
and supple; the eyes should be full and clear, the neck long, and
the wattles of a bright color. A hen turkey is best for boiling.
Like fowls, an old turkey is fit for nothing but the stewpan or the
stockpot. Turkeys require hanging for at least a week, though they
must never be "high" or "gamey."

_Geese_ always should be chosen young, plump, and full breasted, a
white skin, a yellow smooth bill, the feet yellow and pliable. If the
feet and bill are red and hard, and the skin hairy and coarse, the
bird is old. Geese should be hung for a few days. Ducks, like geese,
should have yellow, supple feet; the breasts full and hard, and the
skin clear.