es.

_Seasonable_ from May to October.

COOKING COLLOPS.--Dean Ramsay, who tells us, in his
"Reminiscences of Scottish Life and Character," a number of
famous stories of the strong-headed, warm-hearted, and
plain-spoken old dames of the north, gives, amongst them, the
following:--A strong-minded lady of this class was inquiring the
character of a cook she was about to hire. The lady who was
giving the character entered a little upon the cook's moral
qualifications, and described her as a very decent woman; to
which the astounding reply--this was 60 years ago, and a Dean
tells the story--"Oh, d--n her decency; can she make good
collops?"

ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.

872. INGREDIENTS.--Veal, forcemeat No. 417, melted butter.

_Mode_.--Have the fillet cut according to the size required; take out
the bone, and after raising the skin from the meat, put under the flap a
nice forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417. Prepare sufficient of this, as
there should be some left to eat cold, and to season and flavour a mince
if required. Skewer and bind the veal up in a round form; dredge well
with flour, put it down at some distance from the fire at first, and
baste continually. About 1/2 hour before serving, draw it nearer the
fire, that it may acquire more colour, as the outside should be of a
rich brown, but not burnt. Dish it, remove the skewers, which replace by
a silver one; pour over the joint some good melted butter, and serve
with either boiled ham, bacon, or pickled pork. Never omit to send a cut
lemon to table with roast veal.

[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL.]

_Time_.--A fillet of veal weighing 12 lbs., about 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

STEWED FILLET OF VEAL.

873. INGREDIENTS.--A small fillet of veal, forcemeat No. 417, thickening
of butter and flour, a few mushrooms, white pepper to taste, 2
tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 glass of
sherry.

_Mode_.--If the whole of the leg is purchased, take off the knuckle to
stew, and also the square end, which will serve for cutlets or pies.
Remove the bone, and fill the space with a forcemeat No. 417. Roll and
skewer it up firmly; place a few skewers at the bottom of a stewpan to
prevent the meat from sticking, and cover the veal with a little weak
stock. Let it simmer very _gently_ until tender, as the more slowly veal