Paris tells us, that veal, as a meat, is but little nourishing,
is relaxing, and sufficiently difficult of digestion. Lending
itself, as it does, he says, in all the flowery imagery of the
French tongue and manner, "to so many metamorphoses, it may be
called, without exaggeration, the chameleon of the kitchen. Who
has not eaten calf's head _au naturel_, simply boiled with the
skin on, its flavour heightened by sauce just a little sharp? It
is a dish as wholesome as it is agreeable, and one that the most
inexperienced cook may serve with success. Calf's feet _a la
poulette_, _au gratin_, fried, &c.; _les cervelles_, served in
the same manner, and under the same names; sweetbreads _en
fricandeau_, _piques en fin_,--all these offer most satisfactory
entrees, which the art of the cook, more or less, varies for the
gratification of his glory and the well-being of our appetites.
We have not spoken, in the above catalogue, either of the liver,
or of the _fraise_, or of the ears, which also share the honour
of appearing at our tables. Where is the man not acquainted with
calf's liver _a la bourgeoise_, the most frequent and convenient
dish at unpretentious tables? The _fraise_, cooked in water, and
eaten with vinegar, is a wholesome and agreeable dish, and
contains a mucilage well adapted for delicate persons. Calf's
ears have, in common with the feet and _cervelles_, the
advantage of being able to be eaten either fried or _a la
poulette_; and besides, can be made into a _farce_, with the
addition of peas, onions, cheese, &c. Neither is it confined to
the calf's tongue, or even the eyes, that these shall dispute
alone the glory of awakening the taste of man; thus, the
_fressure_ (which, as is known, comprises the heart, the _mou_,
and the _rate_), although not a very recherche dish, lends
itself to all the caprices of an expert artist, and may, under
various marvellous disguises, deceive, and please, and even
awaken our appetite."--Verily, we might say, after this rhapsody
of our neighbour, that his country's weal will not suffer in him
as an able and eloquent exponent and admirer.

VEAL CARVING.

BREAST OF VEAL.

[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL.]

912. The carving of a breast of veal is not dissimilar to that of a
fore-quarter of lamb, when the shoulder has been taken off. The breast