treet was
steep, we could see no gate, and our progress was soon stopped by houses
and wall. We knocked at the gates of two or three of these houses (in
the upper stories of which lights were burning) for the purpose of being
set right, but we were either disregarded or not heard. A horrid
squalling of cats from the tops of the houses and dark corners saluted
our ears, and I thought of the night-arrival of Don Quixote and his
squire at Tobosa, and their vain search amongst the deserted streets for
the palace of Dulcinea. At length we saw light and heard voices in a
cottage at the further side of a kind of ditch. Leading the horses over,
we called at the door, which was opened by an aged man, who appeared by
his dress to be a baker, as indeed he proved, which accounted for his
being up at so late an hour. On begging him to show us the way into the
town, he led us up a very narrow alley at the end of his cottage, saying
that he would likewise conduct us to the _posada_. The alley led
directly to what appeared to be the market-place, at a corner house of
which our guide stopped and knocked. After a long pause an upper window
was opened, and a female voice demanded who we were. The old man replied
that two travellers had arrived who were in need of lodging. 'I cannot
be disturbed at this time of night,' said the woman, 'they will be
wanting supper, and there is nothing in the house; they must go
elsewhere.' She was going to shut the window, but I cried that we wanted
no supper, but merely a resting-place for ourselves and horses, that we
had come that day from Astorga, and were dying with fatigue. 'Who is
that speaking?' cried the woman. 'Surely that is the voice of Gil, the
German clock-maker from Pontevedra. Welcome, old companion, you are come
at the right time, for my own is out of order. I am sorry I kept you
waiting, but I will admit you in a moment.'

The window was slammed to; presently light shone through the crevices if
the door, a key turned in the lock, and we were admitted.

To the Rev. A. Brandram

(_Endorsed_: recd. Sept. 11, 1837)
SAINT JAMES (SANTIAGO) OF COMPOSTELLA,
19_th_ _Aug._ [1837].

REVD. AND DEAR SIR,--I left Corunna about ten days since for this town,
travelling with the courier or weekly post, who was escorted by a strong
party of soldiers in co