en a light so
vivid and dazzling that it seemed the whole lustre of the fiery element
was concentrated therein broke around us, filling the whole atmosphere,
and covering rock, tree and mountain with a glare indescribable. The
mule of the peasant tumbled prostrate, while the horse I rode reared
himself perpendicularly, and turning round dashed down the hill at
headlong speed which for some time it was impossible to check. The
lightning was followed by a peal almost as terrible, but distant, for it
sounded hollow and deep; the hills, however, caught up its voice,
seemingly pitching it along their summits, till it was lost in
interminable space. Other flashes and peals succeeded, but slight in
comparison, and a few drops of rain; the body of the tempest seemed to be
over another region. 'A hundred families are weeping where that bolt
fell,' said the peasant, when I rejoined him, 'for its blaze has blinded
my mule at six leagues' distance.' He was leading the animal by the
bridle, as its sight was evidently affected. 'Were the friars still in
their nest above there,' he continued, 'I should say that this was their
doing, for they are the cause of all the miseries of the land.'

I raised my eyes in the direction in which he pointed. Half-way up the
mountain over whose foot we were wending jutted forth a black, frightful
crag, which at an immense altitude overhung the road and seemed to
threaten destruction. It resembled one of those ledges of the rocky
mountains in the picture of the deluge, up to which the terrified
fugitives have scrambled from the eager pursuit of the savage and
tremendous billow, down on which they are gazing in horror, whilst above
them rise still higher and giddier heights to which they seem unable to
climb. Built on the very rim of this crag stood an edifice, seemingly
devoted to the purposes of religion, as I could discern the spire of a
church rearing itself high over wall and roof. 'That is the house of
"The Virgin of the Rocks,"' said the peasant, 'and it was lately full of
friars, but they have been driven out, and the only inmates now are owls
and ravens.' I replied that their life in such a bleak exposed abode
could not have been very enviable, as in winter they must have incurred
great risk of perishing with cold. 'By no means,' said he; 'they had the
best of wood for their _braseros_ and chimneys, and the best of wine to
warm them at their meals, which were not the most sparing; m