t soften the whole at once, when it would become quite
unmanageable. The condition of the oven is a very important matter, and
I cannot do better than transcribe the rules given by Gouffe, by which
you may test its fitness for any purpose:

Put half a sheet of writing paper in the oven; if it catches fire it is
too hot; open the dampers and wait ten minutes, when put in another
piece of paper; if it blackens it is still too hot. Ten minutes later
put in a third piece; if it _gets dark brown_ the oven is right for all
small pastry. Called "_dark brown paper heat_." _Light brown paper heat_
is suitable for _vol-au-vents_ or fruit pies. _Dark yellow paper heat_
for large pieces of pastry or meat pies, pound cake, bread, etc. _Light
yellow paper heat_ for sponge cake, meringues, etc.

To obtain these various degrees of heat, you try paper every ten minutes
till the heat required for your purpose is attained. But remember that
"light yellow" means the paper only tinged; "dark yellow," the paper the
color of ordinary pine wood; "light brown" is only a shade darker, about
the color of nice pie-crust, and dark brown a shade darker, by no means
coffee color.

CHAPTER IV.

WHAT TO HAVE IN YOUR STORE-ROOM.

ONE great trouble with many young housekeepers is betrayed by the common
remark, "Cookery books always require so many things that one never has
in the house, and they coolly order you to 'moisten with gravy,' 'take a
little gravy,' as if you had only to go to the pump and get it." It is
very true that economy in cooking is much aided by having a supply of
various condiments; warmed-over meat may then be converted into a
delicious little entree with little trouble. I would recommend,
therefore, any one who is in earnest about reforming her dinner table to
begin by expending a few dollars in the following articles:

1 bottle of capers,
1 " olives,
1 " gherkins,
1 " soy,
1 " anchovies,
1 " tarragon vinegar,
1 " claret,
1 " white wine,
1 " sherry for cooking,
1 " brandy,
1 " Harvey sauce,
1 " walnut ketchup.

And a package of compressed vegetables and a few bay leaves.

Ten dollars thus spent may seem a good deal of money to a young
housewife trying to make her husband's salary go as far as it will; but
I assure her it is in the end an economy, especially in a small family,
who are so apt to g