o the woman
with a moderate income it usually is a matter of importance, or ought to
be, that her weekly expenditure should not exceed a certain amount, and
for this she must arrange that any extra expense is balanced by a
subsequent economy.

Salads add much to the health and elegance of a dinner; it is in early
spring an expensive item if lettuce is used; but no salad can be more
delicious or more healthful than dressed celery; and by buying when
cheap, arranging with a man to lay in your cellar, covered with soil,
enough for the winter's use, it need cost but moderately. Celeriac, or
turnip-rooted celery is another salad that is very popular with our
German friends; it is a bulbous celery, the root being the part eaten;
these are cooked like potatoes, cut in slices, and dressed with oil and
vinegar, or mayonnaise, it is exceedingly good. Potato salad is always
procurable, and in summer at lunch, instead of the hot vegetable, or in
winter when green salad is dear, is very valuable. It may be varied by
the addition, one day, of a few chopped pickles, another, a little
onion, or celery, or parsley, or tarragon, a little ravigotte butter
beaten to cream with the vinegar, or with meat, as follows: Boil the
potatoes in their skins, peel them, cut them into pieces twice the
thickness of a fifty-cent piece, and put them into a salad bowl with
cold meat (bouilli from soup is excellent); put to them a teaspoonful of
salt, half that quantity of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, three
or even four of oil, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. You can vary
this by putting at different times some chopped celery or pickles,
olives, or anchovies.

CHAPTER VII.

ON FRYING AND BROILING.

FRYING is one of the operations in cookery in which there are more
failures than any other, or, at least, there appear to be more, because
the failure is always so very apparent. Nothing can make a dish of
breaded cutlets on which are bald white spots look inviting, or
livid-looking fish, just flaked here and there with the bread that has
been persuaded to stay on. And, provided you have enough fat in the
pan--there should always be enough to immerse the article; therefore use
a deep iron or enameled pan--there can be but two reasons why you fail.
Your fat has not been hot enough, or your crumbs have not been fine and
_even_.

Many suppose when the fat bubbles and boils in the pan that it is quite
hot; it is far from being so. Othe